Taste Tokyo: Let's Pop Your Pork Cutlet Cherry
For the tonkatsu virgin, let me introduce you to the wonderful world of one of my all-time favorite comfort foods. This Japanese dish is a breaded and deep-fried cutlet. Sure, you could go for beef (gyukatsu) or chicken (maybe it’s just called … chicken katsu?), but pork is the OG and, honestly, the superior choice. But this more than just some fried piece of meat. It’s next-level comfort food with all my favorite elements—a glorious marriage of opposites: crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside, savory breading balanced by a sweet-and-tangy dip.
Like my brother the monk says, “It’s all about non-duality.” Japanese and Chinese cuisine are some of my favorites, partly because there’s an ancestral understanding of this Buddhist philosophy of non-duality—how opposites not only coexist but define one another. Flavors and textures that are seemingly at odds create harmony, a kind of symbiosis in the mind and mouth. With both extremes—crunch and tenderness—your palate finds balance, and your soul finds calm. (I stopped smoking weed about 18 years ago - could you imagine if I still did? I mean…unicorns and rainbows.)
Anyway, I stumbled upon this tonkatsu gem in Shibuya thanks to the fine art of a Google search. I arrived to my destination around 9pm for the last seating (I was the last person they let in which had a level of Anna Delvey VIP).
I’ll admit, I was skeptical. When I saw those thin cutlets arrive, I thought, “How is this chef gonna make my four little cutlets tender?” When cutlet is that thin, there’s so much room for dry error. I’d been waiting outside in the cold for 30 minutes—most restaurants in Japan are small and with the influx of tourists and the magical tool of the internet, there’s a line at most places with more than 4 stars—and my craving for breaded meat was approaching a new level of need. But Japan never ceases to amaze my judgmental palate.
The pork cutlet arrived perfectly fried, its golden crust draped in a light, flavorful sauce that enhanced the meat without overpowering it. Every bite was tender, juicy, and packed with umami. The sauce wasn’t as thick or bold as the tonkatsu sauces I’ve had before; it was more subtle and nuanced, and somehow, even better when poured over rice. (Pro move: let it soak into the rice #asian)
This restaurant specializes in a Niigata-style tonkatsu, a regional take that takes the classic pork cutlet and flips the script in all the right ways. Niigata, located north of Tokyo, is known for its hot springs and rice fields (so basically, it’s the spa day of prefectures). What sets this style apart from the tonkatsu I’ve had in Tokyo and America:
- the tonkatsu sauce was incorporated directly into the dish instead of on the side as a dip
- the sauce was not as thick or tangy
- Niigata style cutlet is 1 whole piece vs sliced
- it was served katsudon style, or served on top of rice vs the cutlet sitting alongside the serving of rice
- the dish was more minimal with just the tonkatsu over rice with miso soup, whereas the more common tonkatsu comes with shredded cabbage or potato salad
Like most restaurants in Japan, the menu was refreshingly simple. You basically choose how many cutlets you want and you can opt for the curry version. I went all-in with four cutlets, and I left stuffed—because in Japan, every meal comes with miso soup and endless tea to keep you cozy and full.
The restaurant itself was tiny, seating maybe 10 people max, so it’s better to go with a small crew (or solo, which is what I did). The intimacy adds to the charm—it feels like you’ve uncovered a secret, even if half the line outside is full of tourists (Japanese or international tourists) like you. I think the total cost in USD was about $8-10. Yes, jaw drop.
If you’re in Shibuya, and you’re craving comfort food, don’t miss Niigata Katsudon Tarekatsu Shibuya. It’s worth the wait and afterwards, you can take a quick taxi or subway ride to Shinjuku and have a drink at Golden Gai like I did, an area of narrow alleyways packed with tiny bars, all specifically curated around its own theme. I also got a haircut in the area and yes, it’s a different experience.
Pro Tip: Go hungry, and plan your visit around a day of exploring Shibuya. Japan is massive and there are a ton of things to do in or around Shibuya. Harajuku is right nearby and Yoyogi Park is also right there.
Restaurant name: Niigata Katsudon Tarekatsu Shibuya
Dish: Tonkatsu
Neighborhood: Shibuya, Tokyo
Rating: 4.5 / 5
I'm loving your Tokyo recs! I'm going for my first time in March ;')